Dior’s New Orlando-Inspired Collection Highlights Bloomers and Elizabethan Collars
Dior headlined Paris Fashion Week with its latest ready-to-wear collection, boldly labeled “Autumn-Winter 2025-2026.” The collection, crafted under the direction of women’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, draws inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s novel, Orlando. The book tells the story of a character who transforms from a man to a woman and navigates through three centuries, establishing a rich backdrop for the designs.
Designed as a multi-act performance, the show consisted of five distinct vignettes. The dramatic transitions were highlighted by props like a swing and a “prehistoric bird” that flew overhead, alongside craters descending from the sky and icebergs elevating from the floor. The soundtrack paired with the visuals ranged from moody instrumentals to "Room of Fools" by FKA Twigs, enhancing the theatrical experience.
Reflecting on the novel’s themes, the collection examined the interplay between masculine and feminine styles. Key pieces included delicate ruffles and bustiers integrated with strict waistcoats, as well as frilly collars peeking out from under leather jackets and lace-up riding boots paired with lace bloomers. While maintaining clear references to the Elizabethan and Victorian eras—such as removable statement collars, pantaloons, and intricately designed shirts—the collection was reinterpreted through a modern lens. It featured wearable trench coats, moto leather jackets, and shaggy outerwear, culminating in the elegant red carpet-ready dresses for which the house is renowned. Notably, actress Natalie Portman, a Dior ambassador, attended the show.
In a nod to the evolution of fashion, Grazia Chiuri’s collection not only revisited historical styles but also incorporated elements from more recent decades. The designer aimed to "revisit the memories and gestures that belong to Dior’s heritage," a sentiment reflected in the exaggerated silhouettes reminiscent of Gianfranco Ferré’s iconic ‘90s designs and lace-adorned “J’Adore Dior” T-shirts popularized by John Galliano in the ‘00s.
As the event concluded, the standout looks showcased the bold fusion of history and contemporary fashion, setting the stage for Dior’s future endeavors.
