Why the Military Jacket is a Timeless Favorite from Jimi Hendrix to Jodie Turner-Smith
Fashion Alert: The Military Jacket Resurgence
New York City recently saw a significant moment in fashion as Jodie Turner-Smith showcased a striking ensemble at the Victoria’s Secret after-party. The actress paired relaxed, low-slung light wash jeans and a white vest with a visually arresting black, white, and red military jacket, evoking a Napoleonic aesthetic.
The military coat, often referred to as the Hussar jacket or Pelisse, is characterized by intricate braiding, decorative buttons, and toggles. Its return to the spotlight comes as celebrities increasingly adopt military-style outerwear. Turner-Smith’s Hussar coat, sourced from Georgian brand Keburia, highlights this trend, though she is not alone in her fashion choice.
Jenna Ortega wore a Dior Hussar vest as she attended the brand’s show during Paris Fashion Week earlier this month.
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At Paris Fashion Week, Zendaya drew attention outside the Louis Vuitton show, wearing a metallic, fur-trimmed dress-coat that evokes Rococo military influences. Drawing inspiration from King Louis XVI, Zendaya’s look reflects a broader trend in which designers tap into historical styles, particularly with the recent London exhibition dedicated to Marie Antoinette. The following day, Jenna Ortega turned heads in a gothic black sleeveless Hussar vest adorned with intricate gold embroidery and shining buttons, paired strategically with aviator sunglasses and a mini-skirt.
Zendaya’s Louis Vuitton coat dress, also worn during Paris Fashion Week, similarly resembled a Rococo military coat.
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The resurgence of 18th-century military outerwear is not new. Iconic figures like Jimi Hendrix embraced Hussein pelisses in the 1960s, wearing them in a style that defied their original militaristic intent. Hendrix often paired these jackets with casual, bohemian elements, transforming their context entirely.
Turner-Smith’s military jacket was from the Georgian brand Keburia.
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This playful approach paved the way for high-end designers like Saint Laurent and Gucci to reinterpret military styles, leading to the Hussar jacket’s mainstream acceptance. The Beatles famously adorned themselves in vibrant military coats for their 1967 album "Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band," symbolizing an anti-establishment ethos rather than mere fashion.
The Hussar pelisse re-emerged in the early 2000s, adopted by musicians such as Michael Jackson and Beyoncé, along with the mainstream popularity propelled by Kate Moss, who wore a striking ivory version at the Glastonbury festival.
Jimi Hendrix was known for his love of Hussar jackets, and subverting their original context with his bohemian style.
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In the aughts, Kate Moss led the charge with bringing the style to the mainstream.
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Today, the Hussar jacket is back on runways, showcased in collections by Jonathan Anderson for Dior, as well as by designers like McQueen and Vaquera. According to Molly Rooyakkers, who runs a fashion data analytics Instagram account, global searches for "Hussar jacket" surged by 300% in October compared to the previous month, signaling a notable revival in interest.
