Understanding Emily’s Fashion Journey in Season 5 of Emily In Paris
The much-anticipated fifth season of Emily in Paris has officially premiered, and this time, the show’s fashion choices have taken center stage. Despite the mixed reviews of its styling in earlier seasons, the Netflix series continues to carve a niche as a significant fashion influence within popular culture.
Emily Cooper’s eclectic wardrobe, which some might deem theatrical, remains purposefully curated. The series aims to reflect the aspirational journey of a marketing executive experiencing life in dreamy locales while building connections with attractive, successful individuals around the globe.
Marylin Fitoussi, the show’s costume designer, emphasized this vision in an interview with TUDUM. “Can you wear it? Can you buy it? That’s not the point,” she stated. “For me, what’s important is that people dream about these clothes. That’s what fashion is all about: being able to offer unique and different pieces.”
As viewers follow Emily’s transition from the modern landscapes of the U.S. to the historic streets of Paris and Rome, her journey is depicted through both the narrative and her evolving style. According to series creator Darren Star, in Rome, “she’s loosening up a little, and her style’s evolving and getting more sophisticated.”
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Emily’s Style Evolution in Season 5
Beginning her journey as a novice in the professional world, Emily now finds herself managing a major company’s headquarters in Rome. This development has significantly influenced her style, blending Parisian and Roman influences while keeping her unique essence intact. Throughout the fifth season, audiences witness her flamboyant demeanor mature into more refined and sophisticated fashion choices.
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The Influence of Italian Culture on Fashion
Upon arriving in France, Emily’s maximalist fashion clashed with the more understated Parisian style. However, as she becomes more settled in Italy, her wardrobe subtly transitions towards a more refined aesthetic, reflecting her growth and quest for stability. Fitoussi highlighted how Italian women embrace vibrant fashion choices, noting, “Italian women never shy away from being overdressed [with] glitter, feathers, et cetera.” In contrast, she remarked that “the word ‘overdressed’ in France is considered rude.”
Season five draws heavily from the vibrant hues of Rome, with Fitoussi stating, “The colors in Rome are brighter than in Paris,” while also commenting on the softer palettes associated with Venice. This colorful inspiration evidently influences the season’s wardrobe choices.
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Additionally, season five pays homage to the golden era of Italian cinema, featuring polka-dot patterns, mermaid skirts, and coordinated ensembles reminiscent of vintage glamour. “I made my tribute to Claudia Cardinale, Sophia Loren, and Anna Magnani,” shared Fitoussi, highlighting the feminine shapes and flattering styles inspired by classic films.
Many notable fashion houses, including Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Giambattista Valli, are represented throughout the season, alongside designs from various international designers.
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Hair as an Indicator of Change
Haircuts in Emily in Paris serve not only as a style statement but also mark significant moments in Emily’s personal journey. This season, the choice of the Italian bob illustrates her evolving identity, though variations appear throughout the episodes.
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Lily Collins, who plays Emily, mentioned, “This season, we styled my bob differently in Italy versus Paris. It was sleek and straight in Italy, while in Paris, it had a softer, more effortless French kick—a little je ne sais quoi that captured that Parisian ease. It really reflects Emily’s feelings about her style and where she is in her life.”
This detailed examination of fashion and style evolution in Emily in Paris season five highlights not just a character’s journey but also reflects broader themes of cultural assimilation and self-discovery.











