Where Did Body Inclusivity Go in Fashion?
Trigger warning: This article discusses eating disorders.
In December 2022, Vogue released a special digital-only cover to celebrate Zac Posen’s appointment at Gap, showcasing seven models with the headline "Creativity for everyone." However, the cover has raised questions about the inclusivity of its message, as it largely reflected the hyper-thin aesthetics reminiscent of earlier fashion eras, with only one non-straight-sized model, Devyn Garcia, barely visible.
As a seasoned fashion editor with over a decade of experience, I recognize the enduring challenges surrounding plus-size representation in high fashion. The industry often struggles with a lack of diversity due to the prevalent practice of creating runway samples exclusively in straight sizes. Yet, this particular cover raises critical concerns about body representation from a brand actively promoting a wider range of sizes.
The current landscape for plus-size models appears grim. During the spring/summer 2020 season, 86 plus-size models adorned the runways across major cities, accounting for 2.8% of all models. By spring/summer 2025, that number had dropped to just 0.8%. Meanwhile, models categorized as "midsize," typically sizes 6-12, still face an uphill battle for recognition in an industry that often equates any size above 4 with being “plus.”
Lauren Sherman, a fashion journalist, noted a shift in market demands, indicating that agents are now increasingly seeking mid-size models in the 6/8 to 8/10 range instead of sizes 16 and above. Lauren Chan, a plus-size model, reflected on the trajectory of the past decade, highlighting an ephemeral surge in plus-size representation that now seems to have stagnated. She pointed out that designers previously embraced new plus-size faces, granting them exclusive runway opportunities akin to those enjoyed by straight-size models, a trend that has now largely dissipated.
Those advocating for better body representation are questioning this regression. Indicators of a return to earlier, more restrictive beauty standards were present in collections like Miu Miu’s Spring 2022, which featured predominantly thin models, and the reluctance of many brands to expand size offerings in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic.
This concern is heightened by the growing reliance on GLP-1 medications like Ozempic, which are gaining traction as quick fixes for weight loss. Ruthie Friedlander, co-founder of the advocacy group The Chain, denounced this trend as deeply problematic, arguing that it perpetuates dangerous ideals about body image, effectively erasing the strides made in body diversity discussions.
The availability of GLP-1 prescriptions contrasts starkly with the difficulty many face in obtaining other necessary medications. Friedlander recounted her own challenges in securing essential heart medications while weight-loss advertising proliferates online, highlighting the alarming normalization of such drugs in discussions about body image.
Christina Grasso, also a co-founder of The Chain, articulated that the conversation surrounding Ozempic and similar drugs has allowed for a resurgence of commentary on women’s bodies, often veering into harmful territory. She described the societal fixation on thinness as not merely a question of beauty, but rather a means of enforcing conformity.
As fewer designers create collections for diverse body types, the effect of sample size constraints amplifies. This cycle results in a narrower representation in campaigns and editorial features, reinforcing a trend toward achieving unrealistic standards.
In light of these developments, some industry insiders are expressing cautious optimism. Lauren Chan emphasized the importance of genuine inclusivity, preferring brands that authentically showcase diverse representations over those that adopt superficial diversity measures as a marketing gimmick.
“To witness brands like Sinéad O’Dwyer genuinely investing in the full spectrum of body diversity is both empowering and validating,” she stated. Such initiatives garner more loyalty from customers who appreciate authentic representation.
As fashion’s narrative evolves, the necessity for discussions surrounding body inclusivity remains vital. The conversations taking place today, despite the industry’s setbacks, may serve as a foundation for progress. As Friedlander aptly put it, “I hope that in 2025, we become more comfortable having hard discussions about this, as our ability to innovate within the fashion space depends on it.”
With another fashion month approaching in New York, industry stakeholders are urged to prioritize inclusivity in all facets of design and representation. The demand for change is clear: a collective move away from outdated ideals towards a genuinely diverse future in fashion is essential.
