When Extremists Wear Your Brand: What Businesses Need to Know

Large Far-Right Protest in London Highlights Fashion’s Complex Role in Political Movements

London — In September, a significant far-right protest in London attracted over 110,000 participants rallying against immigration policies. Many demonstrators carried England and British flags, but an unexpected symbol emerged among the crowd: the logo of Italian fashion brand Stone Island.

The iconic logo, which features a nautical star and compass on a badge with green, yellow, and black detailing, was prominently displayed by Stephen Yaxley-Lennon, also known as Tommy Robinson, a prominent far-right figure and co-founder of the English Defence League, who helped organize the march. The logo was also visible on the clothing of other attendees, including notable supporters like English podcaster Liam Tuffs.

Robinson, a former British National Party member with multiple criminal convictions for various offenses, has frequently been spotted wearing Stone Island attire. Earlier this year, he appeared in court on harassment charges while showcasing the brand. Robinson has pleaded not guilty, and a trial is scheduled for October 2026.

Tommy Robinson, whose real name is Stephen Yaxley-Lennon, appeared at the Westminster Magistrates Court in London in June 2025 on two charges of harassment and causing fear of violence against two men. The Stone Island logo appears on his arm.
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Brands exert limited control over who purchases and wears their clothing. Neither Robinson nor his supporters have claimed to use the Stone Island logo to symbolize far-right ideologies. Nonetheless, their choice to don the brand has not gone unnoticed.

Robinson’s nickname pays homage to a key figure, also named Tommy Robinson, from the Men In Gear group associated with Luton Town Football Club. Joe Mulhall, director of research at Hope Not Hate, observed that Robinson emerged from that world, where brands like Stone Island and CP Company, sharing the same founder, are favored. “I can’t think of a time when he hasn’t worn those at public events,” Mulhall noted.

As political violence rises globally, Dr. Cynthia Miller-Idriss, a sociologist at The American University, cautioned brands to be wary of associations with groups promoting violence, regardless of their motives. Stone Island and its parent company, Moncler Group, did not respond to requests for comment.

Questionable Endorsements

Stone Island is not alone in facing scrutiny over associations with extremist movements. The luxury brand Loro Piana received backlash after Russian President Vladimir Putin sported a $14,000 parka from their collection during a televised rally celebrating the invasion of Ukraine. Loro Piana has not commented on the issue.

When Russia’s president Vladimir Putin gave a speech celebrating his country’s invasion of Ukraine, viewers were quick to identify his puffer coat.
Ramil Sitdikov/POOL/AFP/Getty Images

In some instances, fashion brands have seen specific designs taken on as uniforms by political groups. For instance, British label Fred Perry briefly discontinued a black and yellow striped polo shirt after it became associated with the Proud Boys, a far-right group in the U.S.

The unwanted association prompted one Fred Perry ambassador, author Irvine Welsh, to declare he would no longer wear the brand, despite his deep appreciation for its cultural significance. The company has repeatedly distanced itself from the Proud Boys, denouncing their ideology.

Enrique Tarrio, chair of the Proud Boys organization from 2018-2021, wears Fred Perry while rallying in Portland, Oregon in August 2019.
Noah Berger/AP

In 2016, a neo-Nazi website proclaimed New Balance sneakers as the "official shoes of white people," inciting the company to release a statement emphasizing its intolerance for bigotry.

The Rise of Coded Clothing

Dr. Miller-Idriss traces the use of fashion brands as political symbols back to early 1990s Germany, which saw an increase in far-right violence. As the country prohibited explicit Nazi symbols, extremist factions turned to coded clothing, adopting brands like New Balance and Lonsdale.

Miller-Idriss explained that New Balance’s big ‘N’ was co-opted by neo-Nazis, who wore the shoes to signify their identity while adhering to anti-Nazi laws.

Neo-Nazis marched in January 2014 to commemorate the Allied bombing of the German city of Magdeburg during World War II. Several wore clothing by the British label Lonsdale.
Jens Schlueter/Getty Images

Similarly, British brand Lonsdale’s logo inadvertently became associated with Nazi references. When worn below a zipped bomber jacket, the letters ‘NSDA’ could evoke the German initials for the Nazi Party, allowing wearers to conceal their intent if questioned by authorities.

In recent years, political groups have shifted away from provocative appearances. Miller-Idriss noted a style guide from a neo-Nazi blog advocating for a more approachable appearance, believing people would be more receptive to their ideas if they looked more appealing. “Fashion became the new camouflage,” she stated.

From Soccer Hooligans to High Fashion

Founded in 1982 by designer Massimo Osti, Stone Island is known for its technical fabrics and innovative designs, such as color-changing jackets. Although its prices can be high—like a $1,075 nylon hooded jacket—the brand maintains popularity through its cultural relevance and material innovation.

Under CEO Robert Triefus, who joined from Gucci in May 2023, Stone Island’s 2024 revenues were approximately €401.6 million, only a 1% decrease from the preceding year, bolstered by its strong positioning in subcultural communities.

Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher performed on the main stage at the 2017 Leeds Festival wearing a parka by Stone Island.
Andrew Benge/Redferns/Getty Images

The brand has garnered a diverse fanbase, including celebrities like Jason Statham, Steven Spielberg, and Dua Lipa, among others. Its marketing campaigns, such as one featuring Gallagher timed with the band’s reunion announcement in September 2024, have contributed to its visibility in the fashion landscape.

Additionally, Stone Island’s roots in football culture have created a sense of belonging and identity for fans, particularly among the British "casuals" of the 1990s, who favored high-end brands over team-specific clothing to express social status.

Dr. Miller-Idriss explained that this association with hooliganism may attract extremists who share similar sentiments of pride and territorial defense, paralleling the tribalistic thinking often seen in far-right groups today.

Robinson’s affinity for Stone Island may signal his status among peers, according to Ollie Evans, founder of the creative agency Too Hot. "By wearing Stone Island, Robinson may be signaling that he’s the top boy," Evans stated.

Reclaiming the Narrative

The establishment of the Premier League in 1992 transformed soccer into a more regulated sport, curbing some of its hooligan identities. Dr. Tim Ellis-Dale notes that remnants of this past association linger in Stone Island’s reputation.

With the rise of social media, brands face diminished control over their narratives. Miller-Idriss suggests strategies for brands to reclaim their image, such as sponsoring anti-racist events, much like Lonsdale did with its "Lonsdale Loves All Colours" campaign.

Experts have drawn links between Stone Island’s former association with hooliganism and its attractiveness to extremists and activists, such as Robinson, who share the same feelings of pride and connection.
George Cracknell Wright/LNP/Shutterstock

The challenge for brands is to maintain their connection with core fans, a feat that seems intact for Stone Island. While some may disapprove of Robinson’s choice of attire, Evans believes it won’t tarnish the brand’s longstanding legacy, considering its founding designer’s leftist values and ongoing relevance in cultural discussions.