Rick Owens: Embracing Raw Authenticity in the Fashion World
Rick Owens: A Fashion Antihero Returns to Paris Fashion Week
Rick Owens, a Paris-based designer known for his darkly avant-garde aesthetic, showcased his Spring-Summer 2022 collection at Paris Fashion Week, marking a significant return to the city after a year and a half away. Widely dubbed the fashion “prince of darkness,” Owens has built a reputation for his noir-inspired designs, which often incorporate unconventional elements such as pentagram motifs and elk antlers.
During an interview atop the Palais de Tokyo, Owens reflected on his identity within the fashion world. “I suppose being called goth isn’t the worst thing,” he noted. He contrasted the escapism of “Disney World” with his own artistic approach, which confronts life’s complexities. “When you acknowledge it, when you deal with mortality, when you deal with threat, then, yeah, it’s dark compared to Disney. I’m fine with it,” Owens said.
Owens, who was born to a Mexican mother in Porterville, California, launched his namesake line in Los Angeles in 1994. He moved to Paris in 2003 with his partner, Michèle Lamy, and now splits his time between the French capital and Venice’s Lido. His brand has experienced remarkable success, generating hundreds of millions in annual revenue through various lines, furniture collections, and collaborations. His contributions to the fashion industry have been recognized with numerous accolades, including a Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Celebrities, including Kim Kardashian and Timothée Chalamet, have embraced his designs, further embedding Owens in contemporary popular culture.
Owens stands out for his candid nature, especially in an industry often constrained by corporate oversight. “I grew up in such a conservative, judgy town, and it filled me with so much rage,” he stated. “I’m still operating on that rage. This is my revenge. I’m still a vengeful Scorpio.”
His collection exuded luxury while defying traditional notions of opulence. Owens’ innovative use of materials—ranging from blistered leathers to tape-thin cashmere knits—creates silhouettes that are simultaneously captivating and primal. “What I always try to do is bring auteurship to my work,” he explained, emphasizing a desire to challenge the strict aesthetics prevalent in fashion.
Owens has a history of igniting discussion with both controversy and commendable creativity. A notable moment occurred during his June 2015 show when a model displayed a sign reading “Please Kill Angela Merkel Not,” an incident that provoked speculation and controversy. In a more positive light, his 2013 decision to feature American sorority step teams rather than traditional models was a forward-thinking move that predated industry-wide pushes for diversity and inclusivity.
His latest collection, titled ‘Fogachine,’ debuted on September 30 and featured signature pieces such as a dip-dyed sheer top and tulle dress embellished with ravens’ feathers. The collection embodied a blend of confidence and unease, mirroring the sentiments of a post-pandemic world. “Everybody is going to want to flex…but nobody wants to see humility,” Owens observed, summarizing the prevailing mood of the fashion industry. He concluded with a wry smile, “People want to imagine that everything’s going to be fine, and that we’ve got it all under control.”
Rick Owens remains a compelling figure in contemporary fashion, balancing the interplay of joy and darkness through his distinctive vision.
