NYFW’s Size Diversity Challenge and the Designers Leading the Way

New York Fashion Week Highlights a Troubling Decline in Size Diversity

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) has seen a notable regression in size inclusion this season, a trend that many observers fear reflects a broader shift in the fashion industry. The contrasting experiences of past seasons, marked by significant strides in including plus-size representations, serve as a backdrop to this year’s disappointment.

Since 2013, when Eden Miller showcased the first plus-size collection on the official NYFW calendar, there have been moments of celebration in the push for inclusion. One of those memorable moments occurred in 2014 when Chromat opened its Spring/Summer 2015 show with plus-size model Denise Bidot. Designer Christian Siriano further distinguished himself by embracing body diversity, elevating plus-size representation through collaborations and dressing celebrities across the spectrum.

However, the optimism that once accompanied these developments has started to fade. Following the COVID-19 pandemic and the rise in popularity of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, insiders report a stark downturn in the number of plus-size models seen on the runway. "As someone who has been advocating for size inclusion in fashion for over a decade, it is disheartening to witness the rapid reversal of our hard-fought progress," remarked Sarah Chiwaya, a veteran fashion commentator.

Preliminary observations from this season suggest it may rank as one of the least size-inclusive in recent memory, amidst indications that many brands opted out of participation this year. Last season saw a dismal representation with less than 1% of models being plus-size, while approximately 97.1% fell within standard size categories of 0-4.

Several key designers known for their size-inclusive approach, including Rachel Antonoff and Selkie’s Kimberly Gordon, did not show this season, reducing the diversity on display. Chiwaya pointed out that a focus on a small number of designers often leads to a noticeable absence when they do not present.

While there were some bright spots, including displays from Collina Strada and Jane Wade, the overall trend of thin models dominated the shows. Wade’s innovative collection featured elements of nature, while Collina Strada’s designs embraced diverse body shapes. Notable emerging designers like Andrew Curwen, who emphasized inclusivity, also attempted to challenge the status quo.

Yet for every advancement, there appeared to be a retreat. Bella Gerard, a fashion editor, articulated a shared sentiment, noting, “The lack of body diversity on the runway this season just feels so… disappointing.” Concerns over the visibility of plus-size models and the implications of their absence were echoed across the industry.

Despite sporadic moments of diversity, industry veterans like Vanessa Friedman noted a worrying trend: "The gravitational pull is toward an ever-shrinking human form." The need for diverse representation in fashion not only reflects societal norms but also offers brands a lucrative opportunity. Siriano has previously advocated the soundness of financial investments in size inclusivity, stating that adding plus sizes "tripled [his] business."

As the week came to a close, reactions on social media began to spotlight the ongoing challenges within the fashion community, particularly reflecting on problematic standards established by shows like America’s Next Top Model.

Chiwaya warned that failing to address size diversity could significantly impact the industry’s future: "Designers letting themselves off the diversity hook now will inevitably find themselves on the wrong side of history."

The path ahead remains complex, yet the emerging designers and advocates for body diversity continue to inspire hope. As Curwen aptly stated, "Those who are told ‘no’ the most in the industry are the ones we pay the most attention to." With ongoing conversations about size inclusivity, there is a growing expectation that the fashion industry must evolve to embrace a wider definition of beauty.