Big Sleeves Are Making a Comeback: The Revival of Power Shoulders in Fashion

EDITOR’S NOTE: Examining clothes through the ages, Dress Codes investigates how the rules of fashion have influenced various cultural spheres and personal wardrobes.

When discussing clothing silhouettes that convey authority, the padded shoulders of the 1980s often come to mind. Iconic examples include Grace Jones in a sharply tailored Giorgio Armani suit for her 1981 album “Nightclubbing,” as well as Doja Cat’s dramatic interpretation at the 2025 Met Gala, designed by Marc Jacobs.

However, the concept of oversized sleeves as a symbol of status predates the power shoulders of the ’80s. In early modern Europe, these expansive sleeves not only made a bold statement but also showcased wealth and access to high-quality tailoring. They were often crafted from extra fabric as a display of affluence during a time when sumptuary laws constrained luxury. Throughout the 16th century, sleeve styles evolved, reflecting trends from the padded leg-of-mutton shape of Tudor England to the ornate designs favored by the Medici family in Florence.

“The whole point of the style was to show off how much fabric you could possess,” said Darnell-Jamal Lisby, a curator at the Cleveland Museum of Art. He recently organized the exhibition “Renaissance to Runway: The Enduring Italian Houses,” which examines the historical links between Italian Renaissance art and contemporary fashion.

In modern fashion, billowing sleeves evoke a sense of romance and femininity. Detachable versions have made their way back into bridal collections, while fashion weeks have seen designers like Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Valentino, and Saint Laurent put their own spin on the shape. Actress Zoë Kravitz made a statement in one of Saint Laurent’s off-the-shoulder, voluminous gowns at the Academy Museum Gala in October, and Julia Fox wore a striking white puffed silhouette by Marc Jacobs at London’s amfAR Gala that same month.

An American dress from the 1830s sporting massive gigot sleeves, colloquially called leg-of-mutton sleeves for their reminiscent shape.

Socialite Dorothy Hart Hearst in a 1938 issue of Vogue, wearing a puff-sleeve crepe dress by Elsa Schiaparelli.

Julia Fox in London wearing a dramatic Marc Jacobs gown that called back to when sleeves were padded for extra height.

Princess Diana often wore puff sleeves, including on her wedding day, but in 1983, watched a polo match in a more casual take on the style.

The evolution of these sleeves points to distinct historical periods where large sleeves were prominent. During the 1830s and 1890s, they were often enhanced by padding or structured with wiring for a “lantern-like” effect, as noted by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The 1930s saw designer Elsa Schiaparelli incorporating them into evening wear, while the 1980s brought them back at proms and weddings, paired with equally extravagant hairstyles. Sleeves have remained a focal point of dress since the advent of weaving, with the earliest known garment—the 5,000-year-old linen Tarkhan Dress—showcasing pleats embellishing the shoulders and arms.

The rise of oversized, puffed-sleeve styles can be traced back to the Italian Renaissance, a period renowned for its sweeping artistic and cultural influence across Europe, marking the beginning of rapid fashion evolution.

In the early 16th century, sleeves that appeared to burst outward defined one’s “it-factor” or “sprezzatura,” a term explored in the “Renaissance to Runway” exhibition.

Today, sprezzatura is often associated with sophistication in menswear, but in that era, it was an aspiration shared by both men and women. Lisby explains that it symbolized courtly dressing and demeanor, representing a performative nonchalance that could extend to non-aristocratic classes. The term originated from Baldassare Castiglione’s influential work, “Book of the Courtier,” published in 1528.

Raphael’s 1518 portrait of the vicereine of Naples in luxurious crimson velvet with voluminous buttoned sleeves.

A Girolamo da Carpi portrait, painted around 1530-1540, shows the sitter with oversized baragoni, or upper sleeves, shaped like cupcakes.

Lisby emphasizes that sleeves and hair effectively communicate both geographic and historical context. In 16th-century Italy, wide barrel sleeves, often padded for effect, started tapering at the forearm, while the baragoni transformed shape, initially resembling cupcakes before narrowing into a doughnut form. The colors of layered sleeves could indicate one’s municipality—Milan’s colors contrasted with Florence’s subdued hues—while geopolitical influences shaped sleeve styles. Italian aristocrats frequently mingled, creating a blend of sartorial influences.

Artists paid close attention to these details, with traveling artworks serving as significant vehicles for promoting fashion. A painting by Lorenzo Lotto from the 1530s depicts a man in a luxurious doublet featuring padded sleeves, arm outstretched. “Renaissance to Runway” pairs this portrait with a fall 2022 runway shot from Diesel, emphasizing similar textures and shapes. Raphael’s works highlight the stylish tie-on barrel sleeves of the early 1500s, and his portrayal of Doña Isabel de Requesens y Enríquez de Cardona-Anglesola showcases her dramatic red hanging sleeves from 1518, a period marked by Spanish influence. Eleonora di Toledo, the duchess of Florence and a notable figure in fashion, was famously immortalized by Bronzino, depicted in striking, embellished silk brocade alongside her son.

In this Lorenzo Lotto portrait, likely of a wealthy Italian official, the wearer’s padded barrel sleeves take center stage.

A runway look from Diesel’s fall-winter 2022 collection exhibited alongside the Lotto painting at the Cleveland Museum of Art.

Lisby points out that detailing in these portraits, such as the cupcake-style baragoni, demonstrates how fashion has conveyed status over the centuries. Such artistic interpretations continue to influence fashion trends today, as designers draw inspiration from the Italian Renaissance in their work. Similar sleeve trends resurfaced during the 19th-century gigot revival in Victorian England, where sleeve size conveyed prestige and power. In contemporary fashion, sharper lines in suiting have made way for bolder shoulders, signifying a modern interpretation of authority and a way to occupy space.