Exploring Dress Codes: The Meaning Behind Our Love for Lace
Lace: A Timeless Textile Reimagined
New York — In a secluded room at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Antonio Ratti Textile Center, intricate pieces of lace dating back centuries are carefully displayed on black paper. These delicate fabrics showcase elaborate designs created through painstaking handcrafting, with some pieces taking years to complete.
Historically, crafting lace was a labor-intensive endeavor, requiring a significant time commitment. Today, advancements in machinery have streamlined production, allowing lace to be featured prominently on fashion runways, including those of Chloé and Fendi. Its appeal spikes during the holiday season, often adding an element of sophistication or allure to festive attire.
According to lace historian Elena Kanagy-Loux, the fabric’s journey began in the late 15th century, initially serving as modest decorative edges. “What started as a ‘little decorative ornament’ later became more elaborate and subsequently a status symbol,” she explains, highlighting how its intricate nature and laborious creation contributed to its high cost.
In the 17th century, English historian Thomas Fuller described lace as “superfluous wearing,” noting that it neither concealed nor warmed but adorned. Wearing lace, especially in visible areas like collars and cuffs, was a clear statement of social status, implying wealth not just in purchase but in the ability to maintain such a delicate fabric.
At one point, lace’s popularity prompted regulatory measures in the form of sumptuary laws in the 16th and 17th centuries, intended to limit extravagance in consumer goods. However, these restrictions led to increased demand and, subsequently, smuggling.
The arrival of the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century introduced machines that struggled to replicate the finesse of handmade lace. Kanagy-Loux points out that the Luddites, textile workers opposing mechanization, famously vandalized lace machines. As industrialization progressed, many traditional lacemakers lost their livelihoods, boosting the value of handmade and antique lace.
During World War I, some Belgian lacemakers thrived by producing “war lace,” which featured Allied symbols. However, interest waned with the onset of the Great Depression, leading to a stereotype that only elderly women pursued lace-making, a perception Kanagy-Loux clarifies is only partly accurate. Many learned the craft in youth and continued throughout their lives.
Despite fluctuating popularity, lace remained a staple in bridal fashion and lingerie, evolving from lengthy undergarments to shorter, fitted designs as technology advanced. The trend towards sexiness in lingerie further fueled the demand for lace.
Today, modern lace production faces challenges. Kanagy-Loux shares that fast fashion often yields poor-quality lace, leading to criticism from consumers who find it uncomfortable. The rapid production of low-quality lace has resulted in a shift among haute couture houses, many of which have adopted machine-made lace due to demand for quicker turnaround times.
Leavers lace, renowned for its exquisite detail and craftsmanship, is produced on specialized machines that require years of training to operate. However, the scarcity of these machines poses a potential threat to its future availability; Chanel’s investment in a French Leavers lace manufacturer in 2016 underscores the growing importance of preserving this craft.
As the industry evolves, Kanagy-Loux notes that there remains little inclination toward AI-driven lace production. Instead, the fate of this cherished craft may rest with artisans and groups like the Brooklyn Lace Guild, which she co-founded to promote lacemaking through workshops and exhibitions.
“In an era of hyper-fast consumerism, lacemaking allows for a meaningful connection—both with the fabric and oneself,” she reflects. “Creating lace is an intricate puzzle that culminates in something beautiful, fostering a deep connection to one’s process and skills.”
For those seeking a grounding activity amidst the rapid pace of modern life, Kanagy-Loux highly recommends exploring the art of lace-making as a way to connect with both one’s creativity and hand-eye coordination.
